WHERE THE SHORE HOLDS ITS GROUND
There is a pillar in the Somnath temple compound that points south and says, in effect, that there is nothing between this spot and Antarctica. No land. No interruption. Just the Arabian Sea running all the way down to the polar ice. I stood in front of that pillar for longer than I probably needed to and thought about what kind of civilisation plants a stone at the edge of the known world and marks the direction of the void with such complete composure. The answer, I think, is one that has already made its peace with impermanence. Somnath has been destroyed twelve times. Rebuilt twelve times. The current structure was completed in 1951 under Sardar Patel's supervision — the first major act of civilisational reclamation after independence, done over Nehru's quiet objections, consecrated by Rajendra Prasad who attended as a private citizen because the distinction between the state and the sacred was being negotiated in real time and nobody had worked out the correct protocol yet...